We’ve been in Antigua for the last few days, which used to be the capital of Central America. It’s a very pretty town, with a lovely central park and it reminded us of San Cristobal de las casas in Mexico. We spent a day wandering around the shops and the ruins of the cathedral (3q/25p entrance fee), which has been destroyed twice by earthquakes. The contrast of the shafts of sunshine and shadows and the plants growing in amongst the columns and cracked walls made it look just as beautiful as a well preserved, lavishly gilded cathedral.

Under the font at the front of the ruined cathedral, there is a smoke-blackened Jesus, with money all around him. I’m not sure what happens to the money (it doesn’t go towards Cathedral maintenance, that’s for sure!) or what people hope to get by throwing it in there – is it a bribe, or a payment to get your prayers answered..? Maybe they’re just buying hope, like throwing money in a wishing well. It’s certainly a very beautiful and inspiring place, especially when the sun is shining.

On Thursday we took a minibus to the foot of Pacaya volcano, which is one of 3 active volcanoes in Guatemala. We bought sticks from the local kids at the bottom of the volcano to help us walk up. These kids have a good scheme going; it’s 5 quetzals (about 40p) for a stick and then on the way down, they accost you and take it back, so it’s more like a loan than a purchase! We managed to get 2 sticks for 7 quetzals after a bit of bartering, but the kid who met us on the way back down was none too impressed with my offer to sell him my stick back for 6 quetzals…

It took us about 2 hours to hike to the top of the volcano. Most of our group (nicknamed “Championes” by our guide) made it, but a couple of the ladies paid to get on a horse after just a kilometre or so. The horses don’t go all the way to the top (it’s far too steep and rocky for them), so the people who took horses missed the best bit (and the only reason that anyone would want to do the hike, as it’s like walking across Mordor)…

As we got to the top of the volcano, it got very warm, which felt strange as we were so high up, it had been mostly very windy and cold. We clambered over sharp rocks that had been only recently created from cooled lava (and some of which glowed red underneath and were warm enough to melt rubber-soled shoes). The sticks came in handy here, to bang on rocks, making sure they were firm enough to step onto. Finally we came to flowing lava – a river of luminous orange molten rock, hot enough to cook marshmallows in about 20 seconds, which Ise was brave (or stupid?) enough to do.

It was both scary and totally surreal and something I didn’t imagine I’d do in my life. On the way back, it was cold and dark and the last kilometre or so seemed to go on forever – we were shattered and very glad that it hadn’t rained, as the dirt path would have been even more treacherous!

We’re now in San Marcos at Lake Atitlan. It’s very pretty, but there’s not much to do, so we’re only planning on staying for a couple of nights. Last night we went to Blind Lemon’s restaurant and bar, where the American owner plays the blues (musica de pollo) – Dad and Kit, you’d have loved it.

More pictures